Most people assume turfing is a spring job, but November can be a good month to lay a new lawn in Skegness. The soil is still mild, rain does most of the watering for you, and the grass has months to root before summer dries everything out. It does depend on the weather on the day and how well the ground is prepared, so here is what to look for.
Turf roots need soil at roughly 5°C or above to keep growing. On the coast around Skegness, the soil in November usually sits somewhere between 6°C and 9°C, because the North Sea holds its warmth longer than land further inland. That is warm enough for new roots to knit into the ground, just more slowly than in September.
The main things that stop a November job are hard frost, standing water and soil so wet it smears when you walk on it. If none of those apply, laying turf now is perfectly reasonable and often easier than in a dry spring.
Lincolnshire is one of the drier parts of the country, and the coast gets fewer hard frosts than places like Spilsby or Horncastle. That works in your favour. The bigger local problem is wind. A cold easterly off the sea can dry out the edges of fresh rolls surprisingly quickly, even in late autumn, and salt spray can scorch grass in gardens close to the seafront.
Short days matter too. With daylight ending around 4pm, the grass makes very little top growth, so do not expect a lush green lawn by Christmas. What you are after is roots, and those carry on working underground.
Soils around Skegness vary a lot over short distances. Nearer the beach you often find light, sandy ground that drains fast but holds few nutrients. Head inland towards Burgh le Marsh or Wainfleet and you get heavier silt and clay, which can sit wet all winter. Preparation matters more in November than at any other time of year, because the turf is relying on the soil beneath it for months.
On sandy ground, mixing in some well rotted compost or a sandy topsoil with organic matter helps it hold moisture. On heavier ground, avoid working it when it is sticky, as you will compact it and leave the new roots sitting in a cold, airless layer. A pre turf fertiliser low in nitrogen is better than a high nitrogen spring feed this late in the year.
The good news is you rarely need to water November turf in this area once it is down, apart from a soak straight after laying if the ground is dry. Keep off it as much as you can until spring, and especially when it is frosty, because footprints on frozen grass break the blades and leave brown marks.
Lift a corner after three or four weeks. If it resists, roots are going down. Leave the first cut until spring growth starts, usually March or April, and set the mower high, taking off no more than a third of the length.
Costs depend on the size of the area, access, the state of the ground and the grade of turf. As a rough guide, quality turf on its own is often around £3 to £6 per square metre, and a fully prepared and laid lawn locally commonly lands somewhere between £10 and £20 per square metre once clearing, levelling and topsoil are included. Small or awkward plots cost more per metre.
If your garden holds water, has old tree roots in the way or needs levelling, it is worth getting someone to look at it before you buy turf. A quick look at the soil usually tells you whether November is fine or whether waiting until March will save you money.
Send a quick message or give Gordon a ring. We will come and have a look, no charge, no pressure.